Changes should happen, to put a slightly different spin on the original phase. Running over same track creates boredom and we all need a break, we all need some time to relax, some time out of our daily hectic and busy life, some time to have outings with family or friends. And what could be a nicer place than the popular hill station of Mahabaleshwar, at the altitude of 1372 meters, having pleasant walks and good lookouts where sea is only 30 km away visible on a clear day. Mahabaleshwar once was summer capital of Bombay Presidency during days of Raj and has some interesting connections with Shivaji. Mahabaleshwar Railway Station was founded by Sir John Malcolm in year 1828.
Our visit to this historical and beautiful hill station was planned in a day and I, Vineet Tripathi and my friend Radhakrishnan Mudliar (Radhu) headed for Mahabaleshwar the very next morning on Bajaj Pulser 150.
Mahabaleshwar closes right up tight for monsoon season during period of mid June to mid September when local buildings are clad with Kulum grass so as to stop being damaged by torrential rain. During this 3 months period Mahabaleshwar receives unbelievable six meters (235 inches) rain! Our visit to Mahabaleshwar was in the month of mid March when hot summer season starts but Mahabaleshwar remains cool throughout.
Local Tourist information brochure says –
Weather of Mahabaleshwar is healthy and contains ideal 20% oxygen which often augmented in foggy weather of late summer or early monsoon. When Mahabaleshwar plateau is covered in mist helps to make you more healthy. The water contains suitable percentage of Iron that helps increasing hemoglobin in our blood provided you digest your food by any exercise as walking, boating, etc. You will be surprised to note that at Mahabaleshwar all old leaves do not become yellow, some become red.
Getting there and away –
Pune is the normal departure point for Mahabaleshwar although Pune Satara highway road, 120 km from Pune via Panchgani, 19 km before Mahabaleshwar.
Getting Around –
Mahabaleshwar has wonderful collection of old dodge limousines as it taxis. It is possible to hire one to take you around main viewpoints.
We moved for Mahabaleshwar in morning of 14th March at 3:00 a.m. from Pune with only information that we have to move on to Satara highway and leave the highway at a turn at Wai. It was pleasant weather and great drive over smooth Pune - Satara highway road on Pulser until we reached Wai. After that turn at Wai, road was bumpy and weather gone cold as we moved near to Panchgani, just 19 km before and 38 meters lower than Mahabaleshwar. After Panchgani, road is good but all slopes. As we reached at the municipality entrance post of Mahabaleshwar, Radhu’s hands were frozen and we took a small break and paid 10 Rs. entrance fee/person.
After that, we drove to Old Mahabaleshwar village and had some beautiful pictures of sunrise taken from an elevated portion where some construction work was in progress. Here are three old temples which are badly ruined. The Krishnabai or Panchganga ‘five streams’, temple of Lord Shiva, badly ruined and unmaintained, is said to have five streams including Krishna River.
We had our breakfast at a local restaurant near the temple, where owner of that restaurant, a native of Delhi , gave some useful information about various visiting places, lookouts and ways to go there. Elphinstone point, Babington point, Bombay point, Kate’s point, Monkey’s point, Arthur’s point and number of other lookouts around wooded plateau offer fine views over plain below.
Arthur’s point or Arthur’s seat is 12 km from Old Mahabaleshwar which offers a beautiful lookout over sheer drop of 600 meters to coastal strip between ghats and sea known as Konkan. Here vendors with their telescope offer a fine view of Pratapgarh Fort for mere Rs. 5.
On the way to Elphinstone point is another viewpoint known as Castle Rock which is a 25 meters high rock that offers a beautiful scenario of the Konkan hills. Most walking trails are well sign posted but although moss growing over signs can make them difficult to read these days. Riding paths have quaint old names as Lamington’s Ride, Malcolm Path, Lady Wiling don Gallop and Duchess Ride.
There are pleasant waterfalls as Chinaman’s waterfall (2 1/2 km), Dhobi waterfall (3 km) and Lingmala waterfall (6 km). Venna Lake (7km) has boating, fishing and horse riding facilities. It has also got a small park near lake, though not maintained where moss is all over the benches and urinals can be smelled from distance.
Places to stay –
There are plenty of hotels in Mahabaleshwar which are mostly closed during monsoon season. Hotel Saraswati on Mari Peth has doubles with hot water at Rs. 1,500 in season and in off season Rs. 600/800 for singles/doubles. Poonam hotel in the centre of Mahabaleshwar has doubles at Rs. 2,000. Other cheaper hotels are Vyankatesh Hotel, Samartha Hotel and Ajantha Hotel all on Mosque Street. Ripon Hotel is at 20 min walking from bus stand. State Government operated ‘Holiday Camp’ is about 2 km from center. Most expensive hotels are Dreamland Hotel, Regal Hotel, Dina Hotel and Fredrick Hotel.
Places to Eat –
Shere-e-punjab which is right in bazaar offers good food. At far end from same road Imperial stores does take away toasted sandwiches, burgers and other snacks.
From Mahabaleshwar we moved to Pratapgarh Fort which is 24 km from Mahabaleshwar. It was built in 1656 and is connected with one of notable feats in Shivaji’s dramatic life. Outnumbered by forces of Bijapur, Shivaji arranged to meet with opposing General Afzal Khan. Neither was supposed to carry any weapon or wear armour, but neither, it turned out, could be trusted.
When they met, Afzal Khan pulled out a dagger and stabbed Shivaji but Maratha leader has worn shirt of mail under his white robe and concealed in his left hand was a ‘waghnakh’ a deadly set of tiger’s claw. This nasty weapon consisted of series of rings to which long sharpened metal claws were attached. Shivaji drove these claws into Khan and disemboweled him. Today tomb marks where their encounter took place and a tower was erected over Khan’s head. There is statue of Shivaji in this ruined force and well maintained garden along its side. This is at elevated portion and offers a fine view of steep lower ghats. There are lots of monkeys around here on the trees of this steep slope.
Road from Mahabaleshwar to Pratapgarh Fort is in worst condition and there are many bumps and patches. At the lower end of fort is small parking area and few shops along it. There is a temple of Lord Durga in the fort and the tower is along the temple. From the temple the way upstairs goes to the statue of Shivaji and the garden. There are houses and few shops along the stairs. Small children’s sell bunches of --- for Rs. 2. There is another Shivaji’s fort at Raigarh which is 80 km from Mahabaleshwar.
From Pratapgarh fort we moved back to Mahabaleshwar and visited Bombay Point which is popular for its sunset view. Along the point there are number of stalls of snacks, bhel puri, games, juices, etc. Here one can enjoy horse riding for mere Rs.20. Bombay Point offers beautiful view of sunset and great crowd can be seen during evening.
On our way back to Pune from Mahabaleshwar we visited Panchgani which is also called ‘Five Hills’. It is 19 km from Mahabaleshwar at 1334 meters; just 38 meters lower than Mahabaleshwar. It is a popular hill station and has number of boarding schools but it is overshadowed by better known Mahabaleshwar. On way to Panchgani is a beautiful Paarsi point which gives a beautiful picturesque of Mahabaleshwar Konkan Hills and the flow of river Krishna amidst them and beautiful cottages along the river.
Places to stay in Panchgani –
Hotel Five Hills is run by MTDC and expensive hotels include Aman Hotel. Cheaper ones are Prospect Hotel, Hotel Western and Manas Guest house.
